2008 Honda CBR 1000RR track Prep

Just finished packing for my first RideSmart track day of the year.  I had to use my own iPhone app to remember all the stuff to pack ;)  Must mean it's still useful.  I would have forgotten my hat, my chair, and my gas can.  Amazing what a few months off and a new job will do.

Track prepping a CBR 1000RR is impressively different than prepping a Ducati superbike.  My old 600F2 was a little like this, but it was nowhere NEAR the origami procedure.  I foresee a BIG market for original plastics that still have the mounting tabs in place, especially for the rear tail.  By the way, who decided that it was reasonable to force you to remove the gas tank in order to remove the proboscis that is the rear turn signal housing?  I'm not kidding.  And quite a bit of force is required to remove the tail shroud, but it has to be very CAREFUL force.  It does involve the obvious 4 screws once you have the passenger seat off, but then you have to coax it straight back to disengage the tabs from the plastic housing under the tail.  And even then, it's a bit of a fiddle to remove without breaking anything.  I'm SO putting the single-piece tail on there whenever Woodcraft gets around to telling me they've made a race kit for it.

Headlight disconnect is easy, but non-obvious.  Eventually, I'll remove them altogether, but for now, they're staying on there, since it looks like an extra hour or more to pull the front fairing, and then I'd have big holes where the headlights go.  I just decided to pop the plugs off the back of the bulbs.  They DO come straight off, but it requires a lot of faith that the retaining spring will hold the light bulb in place.

Mirrors were non-obvious when it came to the electrical connections for the signals.  Nicely, they just put two bolts that are easy to get to with a box-end wrench, but then you have to discover the rubber boot inside the fairing where there are two fiddly connectors.  Make sure you take those off FIRST.  Once you tug on the wires, it's pretty tough to pull them back down.  Reinstallation will be... tiresome.  If you follow the mounting ear down and then reach behind and feel for a soft rubber boot, you pull it out until you see the colored/square connectors.  The close proximity makes it difficult to disconnect them, but it's doable.  You will likely have to remove the one windscreen screw that goes through the fairing into the rubber screw mount in the fairing mount to get some slack in wire to pull it out of the hole.

If you have the stock exhaust still, like I do until my Leo Vince slipon comes in, and you accidentally pull on the flapper valve cable, it will pull the servo out of position, and throw an error code.  The failure mode is to just stop doing anything since it doesn't know where it is any more.  The code is 34, which will show as 3 slow blinks and 4 fast blinks of the engine light on the dash when the sidestand is down and the bike is on.  To clear this, you have to put the servo back in place.  To get to the motor, you remove the plastic screws in the undertail beneath the rhs under the main seat.  Then pry the cover straight down, since it's connected in front and rear with tabs.  It's pretty stiff, but it DOES come out.  To reposition the servo, move the two round holes in the white wheel to face directly towards the rear of the bike.  Just turn it by hand.  You'll hear the gears whine, but it's okay.  Now find the red capped plug with nothing connected to it under the seat.  Do I need to mention I'm not responsible if you do something that fries you or the bike?  Because I'm not, and I'm just telling you what I did that worked for me.  You may have different results.  Uncap the plug, and get a piece of wire that's stripped on both ends.  Look for the tan-colored wire leading into the plug.  With the bike off, and the kill switch in the run position, put one end of the wire into the hole where that tan wire leads.  Now look for the grey/black wire next to the tan wire.  Both wires are the farthest from the catch for the plug.  Put the other end in that hole.  Turn the bike to on.  The code light should go out.  Turn it off, remove the wires, and start the bike.  If you rev the bike, you should see the servo move at around 4000 rpm or so, opening the flapper valve.  That's what I did, and it worked great.

Now, off to bed, and then down to Angleton and MSR Houston tomorrow!

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